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Melasma Treatments

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Melasma Treatments

What is Melasma?

Melasma is a common skin problem that is also known as ‘chloasma.’ It causes brown patches on the face; most commonly appearing on the cheeks, bridge of the nose, forehead, chin, and above the upper lip. It can appear on other parts of the body which have a lot of sun exposure.

Treatments for Melasma

What Causes Melasma?

Hormone changes like pregnancy, often referred to as the ‘pregnancy mask’ along with sun exposure are the most common triggers for melasma. Although melasma may affect both men and women, the majority of those affected are women. Individuals of Latin or Asian ethnicity are also more likely to get melasma.

Treatment Options for Melasma

There have been many studies suggesting that the use of gentle, topical home care products and professionally applied treatments is the best way to prevent melasma, who are prone to this condition. At Dermablue, we prescribe our patient a daily care regimen with products that include a variety of the following ingredients will help suppress the formation of excess melanin through multiple mechanisms of action, delivering faster, more beneficial treatment outcomes.

At Dermablue, we typically use a good quality sunscreen containing minerals like zinc and/or titanium to minimize UVA and UVB exposure, which prevents brown spots and melasma from returning. We also prescribe a gentle, natural product developed by Dr. LaMond, (link to skincare) ‘natural brightening serum’ to help prevent and correct melasma. It contains several natural skin brighteners which have been proven to correct browns and melasma:

Arbutin, which is naturally found in blueberries, pears, bearberries and wheat, suppresses the activity of tyrosinase and inhibits melanosome maturation.

Kojic acid, naturally found in soy and mushrooms, chelates copper bound to tyrosinase, and decreases the number of melanosomes and dendrites.

Lactic acid is naturally found in milk and sugars. It suppresses the formation of tyrosinase.

Azelaic acid can be found in many grains and castor beans. It provides anti-proliferative and cytotoxic effects on melanocytes and inhibits tyrosinase.

At Dermablue, at times we use prescription products like Hydroquinone to treat melasma. This ingredient inhibits copper from binding with tyrosinase and induces melanocyte-specific cytotoxicity. Although it can be a surface irritant for some skin types, using hydroquinone at a lower percentage, such as a 2%, will help avoid any undo irritation or inflammation in the skin.

Frequently Asked Questions About Melasma Treatments

What is melasma and what causes it to develop?

Melasma is a common skin condition that causes brown or gray patches, typically on the face in a symmetrical pattern across the cheeks, forehead, nose, and upper lip. It’s often called “the mask of pregnancy” because hormonal changes during pregnancy frequently trigger it, but it can also develop from birth control pills, hormone replacement therapy, or sun exposure. The condition is much more common in women and people with darker skin tones. Unlike regular age spots, melasma patches are usually larger, more irregularly shaped, and tend to be deeper in the skin layers.

What are the most effective treatments for melasma?

Melasma treatment typically requires a combination approach since it’s notoriously difficult to treat. The gold standard is often a prescription triple cream containing hydroquinone, tretinoin, and a mild steroid. Other effective topical treatments include kojic acid, azelaic acid, vitamin C, and arbutin. Professional treatments like chemical peels, microneedling, and certain laser treatments can help, but must be used carefully as aggressive treatments can actually worsen melasma. The key is starting with gentle treatments and building up slowly while maintaining strict sun protection throughout the process.

Why is melasma so difficult to treat and manage?

Melasma is challenging because it often extends deep into multiple skin layers, making it harder to reach with surface treatments. The condition is also highly sensitive to hormones and heat, so it can flare up during pregnancy, with hormonal changes, or even from hot yoga or saunas. Sun exposure, even minimal amounts, can trigger melasma to return or worsen quickly. Additionally, overly aggressive treatments can cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, making the melasma appear worse. This is why melasma requires a gentle, patient approach with consistent daily management rather than quick fixes.

How long does melasma treatment take and will it come back?

Melasma treatment requires significant patience, often taking 3 to 6 months to see meaningful improvement, and sometimes up to a year for optimal results. Even with successful treatment, melasma has a strong tendency to return, especially with sun exposure, hormonal changes, or pregnancy. Many people find that melasma is more of a manageable condition rather than something that’s permanently cured. Maintenance treatment with gentle topical products and strict sun protection is typically needed long-term to prevent recurrence.

What lifestyle changes are important for managing melasma?

Sun protection is absolutely critical for melasma management and must be maintained year-round, even on cloudy days and indoors near windows. This means using broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher daily, reapplying every 2 hours, wearing wide-brimmed hats, and seeking shade. Heat can also trigger melasma, so avoid hot saunas, steam rooms, and very hot showers on your face. If you’re on hormonal birth control or hormone replacement therapy, discuss alternatives with your doctor. Gentle skincare is essential since harsh scrubbing or irritating products can worsen the condition. Many people also find that using a vitamin C serum in the morning helps provide additional protection against environmental triggers.

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Melasma Treatments